1. Clean them.
   Get a new battery.
2. Step back — the battery could explode at any moment.
   Ignore it.

Corrosion around the battery terminals is normal, but they should be cleaned regularly so that they maintain their connection. They can be cleaned with a wire brush, and the corrosion can be neutralized with a mixture of baking soda and water or with battery terminal spray cleaner.

1. You should have as few items as possible.
   You should only have keys, and not ID or reward tags.
2. Load it up so the key makes better contact in your ignition.
   However many you want — it doesn't really matter.

It's not an "on fire" problem, but the more items you have on your keyring, the better the chance of something going wrong in your ignition system as the tumblers get worn from the extra weight. Save yourself the hassle down the road by lightening your ring or having a detachable ring for only your car key.

1. To maintain the resale value of the vehicle
   Because thieves target cars with chipped paint
2. Because police are more likely to pull over a car with a bad paint job
   To protect the metal underneath

In addition to making the car more attractive, paint performs the vital role of protecting the metal underneath from rust. When a rock or other debris chips your vehicle's paint job, you should get a tube of touch-up paint in your car's color to heal the coating.

1. False — sometimes chips can be repaired.
   False — as long as the windshield isn't shattered, it's fine.
2. True — a tiny chip will quickly turn into a shatter point.
   It depends on the age of the vehicle.

There's nothing more jarring than a rock flung up from a vehicle ahead of you impacting on your windshield. It's even worse when that rock leaves a chip in your windshield. While you shouldn't let it go, it's probably not necessary to replace the entire glass; a repair shop can often fix the imperfection, or there's even do-it-yourself kits if you're game and the chip is small enough.

1. The car won't start.
   The "Check Engine" light comes on.
2. It drains the battery.
   All of the above

When installing something that runs on your car's electrical system, a mistake can cause a lot of problems that might seem unconnected at the time. Unless you REALLY know what you're doing, best to let a professional install aftermarket devices in your car (and, if there's a problem, you know who to track down to make it right).

1. False — change the filter every 15,000 - 20,000 miles.
   False — modern cars don't need the filter changed.
2. True — changing the oil filter goes hand in hand with changing the oil.
   It depends on the make and model of your car.

When you change the oil, you need to change the oil filter. The filter can hold up to a quart of oil, so not changing this leaves a bunch of dirty oil in the system, which kind of defeats the purpose of the change. They're cheap and their essential, so change them out!

1. Pouring hot water on the windshield
   A mixture of rubbing alcohol and water
2. Spraying WD-40 on the windshield
   Apply a liberal coating of hair spray

A solution of one-third water and two-thirds isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol sprayed on the windshield will take the frost off in a matter of seconds. This is because the freezing point of rubbing alcohol is -182 degrees Fahrenheit. This is also a good solution for frozen door handles and locks, as well.

1. Rock the car back and forth.
   Spin the wheels until the tires can get a grip.
2. Turn the wheels hard to the left or right and hit the gas.
   Shift into reverse and gun the engine.

When stuck in the snow, one technique to try is to rock the car back and forth by going into the low forward gear, lightly applying the gas, and then shift into reverse and do the same. Once you've done this a few times, you might have enough traction to get going. DO NOT spin the wheels; you're just digging yourself in deeper.

1. Barometer
   P.K.E. meter
2. Tricorder
   OBDII Scanner

First introduced in the early 1980s, on-board diagnostics are a huge help in finding out what's going on with your car. Even more helpful is OBDII, which came out in 1996. The car's computer will output a code that the OBDII scanner can read and give the mechanic — or you — the information needed to take action!

1. Make your peace with scraping it for the rest of the car's life.
   Pour hot water on it.
2. Check the battery connection.
   Check to see if the defroster grid is damaged.

The defroster grid is made up of the lines running across the glass that heat up to remove frost or fog, and if the line is broken, the defroster won't work. Fortunately, kits are available that will allow you to easily fix this problem and defrost like a champ!

1. Lightly hit the brakes.
   Hit the brakes hard.
2. Take your foot off the accelerator.
   Accelerate into the skid.

It's a terrible feeling when your car begins to skid on ice and gets out of your control. The impulse is to hit the brakes, but this will only make matters worse. The first thing to do is take your foot off the accelerator and steer gently. If the back end has gotten away from you, steer gently into the direction you are sliding.

1. Accelerating to highway speeds often
   Using high-octane fuel
2. Not letting the gas tank get to "E"
   Letting the gas tank get to "E" every now and then

In addition to keeping any possible sediment from the bottom of the tank out of the fuel filter, not letting your car's fuel tank get too low allows the gas to cool the fuel pump — which is submerged in the fuel tank — giving it a longer life. Also? It's not great for your car to run out of gasoline for any number of reasons.

1. The oils from your skin could cause uneven heating.
   You'll get the bulb dirty and it won't shine as brightly.
2. That's wrong — it's actually better to rub the bulb before installing it.
   With modern bulbs, it doesn't matter.

They're usually easy to change, but car light bulbs, especially the headlights, get extremely hot, and if there's an area of glass that reacts differently than the rest of the surface because it has oil from your skin on it, it could make the bulb shatter. Never handle the glass of the bulbs with your bare hands!

1. Fill 'er up! The gas is fresh!
   Go to another gas station or wait a few hours before filling up.
2. Only fill up your tank halfway.
   Get higher octane fuel for this fill-up.

The tanks can't go empty, of course, but it's not always the wisest course of action to fill up your tank right after the gas station has filled its own. Impurities and sediment can get stirred up right after the tanks have been refueled, which could lead to a plugged-up fuel filter or fuel injector, depending on how good (or bad) the station's own filters are.

1. Changing the oil regularly
   Examining the fan belt for wear
2. Making sure the gas tank stays full
   Changing the coolant regularly

Your antifreeze won't last forever, and as it wears out, your water pump, radiator, heater core and other components will pay the price — as will you. Make sure that you or your mechanic change out the fluid on a regular basis.

1. A picnic basket
   An old blanket
2. A second spare tire
   A plastic tarp

An old blanket can come in handy for times when you have to occasionally haul wood or other oversized cargo and don't want to leave a scratch in your paint. Also, if your car breaks down in winter, a blanket could make the wait for help much more comfortable. It can also be used as a traction aid, although that might be the last time you use it.

1. Tomato juice
   White vinegar
2. Oranges
   WD-40

When mixed with equal parts water, white vinegar is great for getting unwanted odors out of your car. Spray it in the cabin and, as it dries, it should take much of the odor with it. It's also good to vacuum the vehicle from time to time to help with the odor situation.

1. Vacuum the vents.
   Change out the compressor.
2. Try to recharge the refrigerant.
   Run it on full-blast each time you drive for five days.

Over time, the refrigerant used to cool the air that comes out of your A/C can lose its effectiveness. There are kits available that will allow you to recharge your air conditioner with new refrigerant and allow you to keep your cool.

1. Accelerator plate warping
   Bad spark plugs
2. Bad fuel pump
   Worn transaxle

The spark plugs provide the fire that ignites the fuel/air mixture within your engine's cylinders. If these plugs are sparking like they should, it's time to change them out. Fortunately, this is a fairly easy operation with most cars.

1. Floor mats
   Cardboard
2. Kitty litter
   All the above

It's easy to get stuck in snow in parking lots, alleys, side roads or streets that haven't been plowed. Basically, anything you can use to get a better grip on the road can help you get out of an icy trap.

1. Your gas cap
   Your fan belt
2. Your mechanic's availability
   The engine — duh!

There are a lot of reasons why the "Check Engine" light will suddenly come to life on your dashboard. It could be a bad oxygen sensor, a failure of the catalytic converter, bad spark plug wires or more. The first thing to check, however, is to make sure the gas cap is on tight and not damaged. A loose gas cap is very fixable, even if you're not mechanically inclined!

1. Check the fuse.
   Check the headlight bulbs.
2. Wait 10 minutes and then try them again.
   Pop the hood and make sure the battery is connected.

If both headlights go out at the same time, chances are it's not the bulbs but the fuse that controls the system. Check the owner's manual to determine which fuse is responsible for the lighting system and where it is located and see if that's the problem.

1. True — the one on the engine is the only air filter in the car.
   False — there's an air filter for the cabin, as well.
2. False — there are at least 10 air filters in the modern car.
   It depends — only U.S.-made cars have more than one filter by law.

The cabin air filter is usually located behind the glove compartment and cleans the air that is coming into the cabin through the ductwork. If this filter gets too dirty, it can make the A/C blower run harder and shorten its life. This filter is usually easy to change out in most vehicles. Note that not all vehicles have them!

1. The number of your mechanic
   ODBII Scanner
2. Tire pressure gauge
   Gloves

When you get a "low tire pressure" warning light on your dashboard, it can sometimes be hard to tell which tire is the culprit just by looking. Tire pressure gauges are inexpensive, easy to use and can tell you which tire needs airing up. It's also good to check your pressure occasionally, especially when the weather changes with the seasons, to make sure you're properly inflated.

1. Get more washer fluid.
   Fill it with water for the time being.
2. Keep trying to get it to come out; maybe the system needs to be primed.
   Run the wipers to try and scrape the glass clean.

The humble blue windshield fluid (or whatever color you've chosen) is dirt cheap but performs a valuable function of keeping your visibility as clear as possible. When you run out, don't fill it with water, especially in winter; it won't do as good of a job and if it freezes it could crack the reservoir. Also, if you try to run it when it's dry, it could damage the pump. Spring for the good stuff!

1. Silicone grease or spray
   WD-40
2. Vasoline
   Motor oil

If your door or window seals start to deteriorate, they can't do their job of keeping water out of the car. The best way to maintain their integrity is to use silicone grease or spray; oil-based products will damage the rubber and lead to leaks and heartache.

1. Whatever's on sale — it's all about the same.
   Orange in winter, green in summer
2. Whatever fluid you've been using
   The most expensive type

When you mix orange and green antifreeze, you'll get more than a really ugly color of coolant; you'll get muddy gunk because they are actually two different chemicals that don't react well to mixing with each other. Since a gel won't flow through your radiator, it also won't help your engine cool.

1. Immediately pull to the side of the road
   Pop the hood while driving to vent the heat
2. Turn up the A/C
   Turn up the heater

You shouldn't drive a car that's overheating very far, but if you can make it to home or the garage, a way to draw off excess heat is to turn on the heater. The heater core is a mini-radiator and can take a bit of the load for a while. This isn't a permanent solution, of course, but it could get you to where you're going in a pinch.

1. Keep the speed down for the first 1,000 miles.
   Run it hard during the first 1,000 miles to get the motor broken in.
2. Overinflate the tires for the first 1,000 to break in the suspension system.
   Change the oil after the first 500 miles.

A new car has a new engine that requires a period of "breaking in" (usually about 1,000 miles but could vary depending on the make and model). By keeping the speed and the RPMs down, you allow the car's engine to settle into what should be a long, healthy life.

1. Take it to the garage — this is nothing to fool around with!
   Unbolt the retention gear and make sure everything is where it should be.
2. Spray WD-40 into the retraction pulley.
   Wash them.

Over time, your seat belts can become dirty and not want to work as well as they did when the car was new. Often, simply washing them can make them snap back to their former responsiveness!

1. WD-40
   Lithium grease
2. WD-40 and THEN lithium grease
   Motor oil

WD-40 is not a lubricant but is instead a rust penetrant. Thus, it's only the first step of fixing a creaky hinge or latch. Spray the penetrant on it first, let it soak in for a bit and then use lithium grease to lubricate the part. On its own, WD-40 will silence the noise for a bit, but it will also attract dirt and other debris and cause a worse problem down the road.

1. Positive to the positive terminals, negative to the negative terminals
   Positive to dead car's negative terminal, negative to dead car's positive terminal
2. Positive to the positive terminals, negative connected from the negative terminal to the live car's chassis
   Negative to the negative terminals, positive from the live car's positive terminal to the dead car's chassis

When you are giving or getting a jump start, it's very important that the terminals are connected properly. Making sure both cars are off, connect the positive jumper cable to the positive terminals (they are usually red), and then the negative (usually black) cable to the dead car's negative terminal and to the live car's bare metal chassis.

1. Not filling up their gas tanks
   Letting their windshields get too dirty
2. Not getting the oil changed
   Not washing their cars

Between the dirty snow, the road salt and the general lack of direct sunlight, it's easy to let your car get dirty and just clean it once spring has sprung. The problem is, however, that dirt and salt can attack the paint and corrode the metal leading to rust. Sure, that "clean car" look isn't going to last very long, but it's good practice to keep your car as clean as possible, even in winter.

1. Dirty fuel filter
   Dirty air filter
2. Dirty oxygen sensor
   Dirty oil filter

All the air that comes into your engine to mix with fuel for combustion first goes through your air filter. If it gets dirty to the point that enough air isn't making it through, it could cause all the symptoms listed here. It's an easy fix on the vast majority of cars, so change the filter and clear the air!

1. Letting the car idle for a few minutes before driving
   Starting and driving at a moderate speed
2. Getting the car to highway speed as quickly as possible
   Racing the engine after starting to help get it to its optimal temperature

In cold weather, the engine will reach its optimal temperature quicker when you drive it at moderate speeds after starting. Letting it idle cold can actually damage the engine and leave deposits on the cylinder walls. You should let it warm up, however, before putting a strain on it, such as going highway speeds.